''The Red Taj:'' A Forgotten Gem of Agra’s Oldest Colonial Roman Catholic Cemetery

Colonial catholic cemetery Red Taj, Agra, India. thehindu.com

Amidst the bustling historical attractions of Agra lies an overlooked jewel: the Red Taj, a mausoleum within the Roman Catholic Cemetery. This structure is a testament to the city's diverse cultural and historical landscape, overshadowed by its more famous white counterpart, the Taj Mahal. The Red Taj, constructed in red sandstone, stands as a poignant reminder of Agra’s colonial-era Christian community and their contributions to Indian history.

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The Legacy of John William Hessing

The Red Taj is the final resting place of Colonel John William Hessing, a Dutch mercenary who served in India during the late 18th century. Born on November 5, 1739, in Utrecht, Netherlands, Hessing embarked on his career with the Dutch East India Company and later found his way to India. Over his storied career, he served various rulers, including the Nizam of Hyderabad and the Maratha leader Mahadji Scindia.

Hessing's life was marked by bravery and military prowess. He earned respect and recognition for his service, eventually becoming the commandant of the Agra Fort under Scindia's successor, Daulat Rao Scindia. Hessing passed away on July 21, 1803, due to prolonged illness, leaving behind a legacy of valor. He earned substantial wealth in India. His widow, Anne, commissioned the construction of the Red Taj in his memory, spending 100,000 rupees on the mausoleum.

Architecture of the Red Taj

The Red Taj is a scaled-down replica of the iconic Taj Mahal but built in red sandstone, giving it a distinct and warm hue. Unlike the Taj Mahal, the Red Taj lacks freestanding corner minarets, but it retains the elegance of Indo-Mughal architecture. The upper level features an ornamental cenotaph under a dome, while the actual grave lies in the crypt below. Surrounding the tomb are intricate jaali (latticed) screens, offering a serene and contemplative ambiance. Anne spent about Rs.100000 to build the mausoleum. She died in Barrackpore, W. Bengal in 1831. Hessing's younger son Thomas died in Degah, Bihar.

A Persian inscription above the entrance honors Hissing's life, describing his Dutch origins and his fame in India. The poet who composed it also mentions the date of his death, providing historical context for the monument.

A Neglected Treasure

The Roman Catholic Cemetery houses graves of European traders, mercenaries, and missionaries who lived and died in India. Among these, the Red Taj stands out for its architectural beauty and historical significance. Despite this, the mausoleum has largely been forgotten, receiving minimal attention from tourists and preservationists alike. Hidden behind stone walls in a quiet corner of Agra, it remains an underappreciated site in a city famed for its heritage.

Preservation and Awareness

The Red Taj deserves greater recognition for its unique place in India’s history, bridging European and Mughal influences. Efforts to promote this historical gem could not only preserve the monument but also enrich the narrative of Agra’s multicultural legacy.

https://www.navrangindia.in/2020/06/dutch-army-man-john-hessing-and-red-taj.html